Wednesday, August 27, 2014

                   Walking With Lavender

 
Ah, this is the time of year that here in America,
it is time for the walking in fields of Lavender...
So refreshing, so beautiful, so soft yet crisp,
what more could one ask for in a floral that is
both lovely, and useful medicinally and aromatically.
 
 
 
Lavandula (common name lavender) is a genus of 39 known species of flowering plants in the mint family Lamiaceae. It is native to the Old World and is found from Cape Verde and the Canary Islands, southern Europe across to northern and eastern Africa, the Mediterranean, southwest Asia to southeast India. Many members of the genus are cultivated extensively in temperate climates as ornamental plants for garden and landscape use, for use as culinary herbs, and also commercially for the extraction of essential oils. The most widely cultivated species, Lavandula angustifolia is often referred to as lavender, and there is a colour named for the shade of the flowers of this species.
 
The English word lavender is generally thought to be derived from Old French lavandre, ultimately from the Latin lavare (to wash), referring to the use of infusions of the plants. The botanic name Lavandula as used by Linnaeus is considered to be derived from this and other European vernacular names for the plants. However it is suggested that this explanation may be apocryphal, and that the name may actually be derived from Latin livere, "blueish".
The names widely used for some of the species, "English lavender", "French lavender" and "Spanish lavender" are all imprecisely applied. "English lavender" is commonly used for L. angustifolia, though some references say the proper term is "Old English Lavender". The name "French lavender" may be used to refer to either L. stoechas or to L. dentata. "Spanish lavender" may be used to refer to L. stoechas, L. lanata or L. dentate.

(from wiki)


This is one of my favorites, of all herbs to distill personally.
It not only infuses the workshop with a wonderful and
stimulating scent, but it also is one of the most personally
rewarding to distill, as its volume is quite considerable for
the work usually required by a distiller to make it ready to
use in products and perfumes, within an hour of beginning
the process of distillation, it is readily releasing its aromatic
oil, and quite fast. Some items are so very laborious to produce,
but lavender always rewards bountifully. Not all lavenders are
created equal. For my own practice, I prefer the cultivars of
'Provential' Lavender- They are softer yet strong in their scent,
more suited to use in parfum manufacture, not so 'herbal' in
their presentation. Also, quite a lot depends on when, where,
and what part of lavender it is that one distills. When I run
short of my own supply of personally distilled lavender, I have
to be very selective with the kind I buy from outside sources,
as many of them distill the whole plant (as the stems and leaves
also yield essential oil) and this produces that smell that is more herbal and medicinal, rather than floral. So when I distill, I
distill ONLY the floral spikes. And to increase its desirable parfum applicability, I sometimes co-distill it with certain precise other plants that have a high ionone yield, the combination brings out a more desirable, and soft scent, much more useful in eau d' parfum.
It is an indispensable ingredient factor  in all cologne formulas.
But this is not its only use. In aromatherapy, it has both calming and focusing powers in its scent. For aromatheraputic purposes, it  combines so excellently with pure Ensans (Frankincense) oil. This blend relieves stress, and relaxes while focusing the mind. If one can afford true Attar of Honeysuckle, a little admixture of this to the two aforementioned, makes for a very effective calmer and stress reliever. If one combines it with organic bases of lotion for topical use, it is excellent for burns (sunburns to other types of burns damaging to the epidermis). It may be applied 'neat' (full strength) to cuts and contusions and bruises. It makes an excellent ingredient in products for men's damaged work hands.  If combined with Chamomile, (Bleue) (a transformed, fermented form of chamomile that is deep blue in color), it is a par excellent choice in products for babies tender skin, used in lotions, baths, or diaper rash remedies. consult a local herbalist for proper percentages when making products for your baby for home use. 
 
So here here, to Lavender, a foremost in natures healing aromatic oil cabinet! And enjoy your summer ends....
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Saturday, August 23, 2014

Further Talks of Petitgrain Essential Oil




Petitgrain is an essential oil that is extracted from the leaves and green twigs of the bitter orange plant (Citrus aurantium var. amara) via steam distillation. 
   Petitgrain is a wonderful and indispensable ingredient in traditional 'cologne'. The uses it has
is wide and wonderful as its smell. Its a powerful disinfectant and anti-staff infection fighter.
   Its main regions of production are Paraguay and France, with the former's product being of higher odour tenacity. Petitgrain oil (fr. little grain) gains its name from the fact that it used to be extracted from the small unripe oranges of the plant. The oil has a greenish woody orange smell that is widely used in perfumery and found in colognes. Though distilled from the same botanical species as neroli and bitter orange, Petitgrain Essential Oil possesses its own characteristically unique aroma. Petitgrain Essential Oil is distilled from the leaves and sometimes the twigs and branches of the tree whereas neroli essential oil is distilled from the blossoms and Orange Essential Oil is typically cold pressed from the rinds of the fruits.
  
Antiseptic: Almost all of us are well acquainted with the word “septic” and hear it frequently in our daily life, but seldom do we try to investigate into its details. All we care to know is that whenever we get a wound, it is enough to stick a “Band-Aid” or any other medicated strip on it or apply an antiseptic lotion or cream on it and it is over. If it still gets worse and there is reddish swelling around the wound, then we go to the doctor, he pushes in an injection, and the matter is settled. Have you ever wondered whether you can get septic even without open cuts. What is septic and what causes it? How serious can it be?
Septic is actually a type of infection which may happen to any open and unprotected body part, external or internal, and is caused by a kind of bacteria called Staphylococcus Aureus. Since wounds are the points most vulnerable to infection (being open and exposed), symptoms of septic are therefore mostly seen on wounds but are not limited to that. Septic in the urethra, urinary tracts, gall bladder, and kidneys are also frequently heard of. Neo-natal babies are very susceptible to septic. This infection can give rise to acute pain in the affected places or in the whole body, cramps, convulsions, swelling with redness, stiffness in the muscles and joints, abnormal behaviour, and even death, in the most extreme cases. Many babies catch this infection the moment they are born or when their umbilical cord is cut to detach them from their mother’s body, and this septic can often lead to their tragic death. An antiseptic, like this essential oil of Petitgrain, fights this infection by inhibiting bacterial growth. This oil, being non-toxic and non-irritant, can be safely applied externally or ingested.

(from Wiki and Organic Facts)

 
 
 
Happy Scented Saturday!
 
 
A Little Talk of Essential Oils and Perfume

                                               (Art by George Barret)

Today is such a wonderful and glorious day. Sun shining,
low temperature, and the crisp and tangy scent of wild
herbs and trees in the air. These scents bring to mind
some of the ingredients in our upcoming scent- "Flint
Quintessence"  So I thought I would take this opportunity
to speak of some of the key ingredients. This perfume is
made of 90% local collected plants. Including Sage Brush,
Juniper Berries, Incense Cedar, Yarrow, Vegetable Musk,
With other herbs and trees, needles and sap. This can be
worn by any gender, but it is one of those things that will
probably find its most favor with men of the 'in-between'
ages....  So let us talk of some of the ingredients as applied
in Aromatherapy...

Juniper Berry Essential Oil
 
Juniper Berries (Juniperus communis)Juniper berry essential oil is derived from the berry-like seed cones of Juniperus communis, which belongs to the Cupressaceous family. The genus Juniper is divided into at least two subspecies with frequent intermediates which can vary in habit from a low, spreading bush to a small columnar, single stemmed tree.
Since ancient times juniper has been an important spice in numerous European cuisines, and particularly where it grows abundantly such as throughout the Alpine regions. It is used to flavour a wide range of foods such as sauerkraut, stuffings, vegetable pates, and beverages such as tea and of course most famously, gin.

Juniper berries, leaves and branches have been used since ancient times when the plant was believed to possess the power to ward off evil spirits, negative forces and illnesses. These parts were also used for cleansing and purifying the mind, body and spirit. Juniper branches and berries were burned in Sumeria and Babylonia as a sacrifice to the gods and considered sacred to the Sumerian goddess Inanna and her successor, the Semitic goddess Ishtar.
In ancient Egypt and Tibet, juniper was highly prized as a medicine and as an ingredient in religious incense. A remedy to treat tapeworms was discovered in Egypt on a papyrus which dated back to 1550 BC. Since that time, the indigenous peoples of many cultures have used juniper to treat a wide range of conditions including urinary infections, respiratory conditions as well as arthritic and rheumatic conditions.

Aromatherapy uses

Juniper berry is a stimulating essential oil with an unsurpassed cleansing and purifying action, which makes it effective in the fight against cellulite and water retention. To benefit from its diuretic action, blend it with sweet fennel, cypress and grapefruit and massage the affected area. For the best results, treat twice daily with combinations of massage and baths.
Its cleansing action can also be utilised to great effect with arthritis, rheumatism and gout, since it encourages the elimination of uric acid which is a contributing factor with these diseases. Massage is the most effective method of treatment for these conditions because it stimulates the circulation, although the oil can also be used effectively in both warm compresses and baths. Juniper also has a mild analgesic effect which helps to ease general muscular aches and pains.
Traditionally known to have an affinity to the urino-genital tract, juniper berry still remains many therapists first choice of essential oil for the treatment of cystitis. At home it can be used in a douche or a hip bath, as well as massaged onto the abdomen. Of course if symptoms persist you should see your doctor.
Problem skin conditions such as acne, dermatitis and weeping eczema respond very well to juniper berry essential oil, where it imparts an antiseptic, astringent and soothing action. Used in a carrier lotion juniper berry is helpful with seborrhea of the scalp, and in creams and lotions it is a tonic for dull, oily and congested skin.
Juniper berry oil is an effective neurotonic which can help with cases of stress, anxiety and general burn-out. Its overall effect on the emotional system is one of strengthening and cleansing, helping to dispel negative emotions such as insecurity, loneliness, sadness and guilt.
Despite its unfortunate and incorrect reputation as an abortificient, juniper berry is a versatile, stimulating and strengthening essential oil which brings a wide range of therapeutic benefits to aromatherapy.
In Europe and Asia the needles and berries were used to make tonics for kidney and stomach ailments, and native Americans from the Pacific Northwest used tonics made from the branches to treat colds, flu, arthritis, muscle aches, and kidney problems. In fact, juniper berry remains in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia to this day.

(from:http://www.quinessence.com/blog/juniper-berry-essential-oil)

Our next discussion will be about Petitgrain Essential Oil.

Be Scentfully Inspired Today!


 

Thursday, August 21, 2014

New Parfum

ANNOUNCING THE NEW BLACK CAT #23

À l'enseigne de «Civette Toi Vieux (At The Sign of 'Thee ol' Civet Cat')
 
 
À l'enseigne de «Civette Toi Vieux is very pleased to announce the production
of our new Black Cat Scent. Our famous beginning one was just
plain Black Cat. To differentiate between the two, we have named
this new one 'Black Cat #23'. It differs from our original in many
ways. As with our old one, this is a scent that is pleasing to those
who enjoy a sultry and rich undertones of aged citrus and ensans with notes of Tonka.
   Our new one is also enhanced by undertones of authentic musk's-
Hints of muskroots, Hydrax musk, Civet and Castoreum. Enhanced
with hints of vanilla and patchouli, with a smaller note of citrus to
bring to mind our whole Black Cat legacy. This is a scent easily
worn by those who like typical Chypre blends, with rich notes of
resins and balsams.
   Black Cat originated as an old southern Hoodoo blend of scents
purported to aid in the success of gambling, finances, and last, but
not least, the Love and Attraction. This was also rumored to be of
use by those.... (remember plantation histories) who wanted to enter
unnoticed to the chambers of a desired love interest, and then steal
away into the early morning hours of dawn undetected. Now while
we cannot claim that our scent can do this.... we can claim that those who like an earthy and musky scent on their own, or their
lovers skin, bringing out the animal in all of us!
   To stick to tradition, the bottles of Black Cat are delivered in
Red Linen Bags packed with Tree Moss. Sure to be loved either for
its scent, or its unique presentation... Also, while a strong scent, we
have brought the intenseness down to a tolerable level so as to not overwhelm, yet enough to draw interest and comments.
 
 
 

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Experiments in Aromatherapy

This time of year has that 'ungh' type of feeling.... Hot and
overbearing, humid and sticky..   Making us start to look
forward to the autumn and the cool evenings of sleep and
relaxation.  Myself, I live on top of a sagebrush steppes type
of desert environment.  So the mornings are cool, with an
undertone of sagebrush and fresh juniper scent. Then it is
rather merciless in its daytime heat, but punctuated by late
day thunderclouds and an occasional rain storm. But, for
all of that, a rather glorious evening. I live on top of a plateau,
so the morning and evening contain what is most beloved
to me- sunrises and sunsets that remind me that creation is
the most treasured of the many gifts of the universe. Working in the herb garden and preparing for a winter of distillations
that promise wild and beauty inspiring scents. Who could
ask for more? and a quiet and solitude that gives rise to the
required open minded creativity and serenity needed to
compose scents of my spirit. In these types of times, it reminds
me of my purpose here on earth.

So, along these lines of thought, a simple scent combination that
is readily and easily made by oneself, in your own place of
serenity, one, that helps to sharpen the mind and spirit as well and invigorating or relaxing, depending on your predisposed
mood, can be composed of:


                       Lavendar oil distilled with Elecampagne, 3 parts
                       Rosemary oil, 1 parts (optional)
                       Petitgrain oil, 3 parts
                       Spearmint, 1/2 part (optional)
                       Rose or Jasmine Attar, 1 part
                       Ensans (Frankincense) 1-2 parts

This is a recipe that can be played with, joggled around, to
come to the scent that seems to work right for your own self.
This can be a crisp and refreshing scent, or a relaxing one, depending on your choice of herbals versus florals. Start with just mere drops of each, until you come to a combination that
suits your own sensibilities'. As with all aromatic materials, always 'patch test' the blend before full usage, to make sure of no allergic reaction.

Pachabels Canon in D, classical Guitar


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXC9tuumjiA&feature=player_detailpage







 
QETZAL PARFUM

This crisp and refreshing, yet heady scent is named after the South American bird of the same moniker. Wafts of jungle scented humidity rich with Orange Blossoms, three kinds of citrus and a harmony of florals, flavored herb...s and woods to bring a strong body to the core of the scent (Lavender, Sage, Palo Santo). Traces of resinous bushes (Ciste, Ensans), roots and nearly fugitive spices are secreting themselves just under the effluviant nimbus of lively thought and creative conversations of the osmological, ontological omniverse (?!). This scent comes flying swiftly to you on the wings of the four winds. This parfum was patiently waiting its birth into this garden of mine for nearly ten years. Its parent of Inspiration is the olde antique scent known to some as the eau de toilette/cologne known as Agua de Florida- Florida Water.

Welcome to Qetzal

Rejoice in the Flight of Your Soul. Most especially for your personal enjoyment. Happily Scented. Made for a Blessing.

So Qetzal is our thought of what Florida Water would be one day. The Agua Nueva- The New Water, if you will. As if Florida Water took but one more step and allowed a more lavish presentation of citrus and a stronger floral note- a little more satisfaction, and the floral mystery ensconced in an effluviant cloud (pepper, cardamom, ginger) with a strong fixity and staying power for citral concoctions. Fragrant grasses compliment the upper and mid notes of this composition. The past and future coming together in one fragrant - NOW. This blend may be used both as a light citrus accent used sparingly for wide crowds and social tet-d'-tets, or used lavishly for those moments of warm intimacy and excited closeness of thot or soul... Rumored to be suitable for Curandismo and songs for Plants....And living Well.
 
 
 

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

A Little About Parfum

The words parfum, cologne, eau d' toilette, esprit d' parfum, all refer to differing concentrations of extracts, oils and alcohols, and this also depends on their origins of manufacture.
Contrary to popular modern opinion, alcohol is an intrinsic and important part of parfum making. People have erroneously attributed negative qualities to alcohol, lumping it into the same catagory as syntheti...c and artificial perfumes. There are many different forms of synthetic alcohols of various consistencies, that perform different jobs in the body of a perfume. At The Old Civet Cat, we do as our french predecessors did. We use alcohol of nearly 100% strenghth specifically made for the food industry. We specifically denature the alcohol ourselves, making it suitable for parfum manufacture. The process of denaturing is specific to each different scent aroma our director makes - this allows it to be customized to need, and this is where the addition of ingredients not friendly to distillation are added. This also allows the director to employ the use of natural fixatifs. A fixatif is a blend of balsams and resins and oleo resins, that are added in specifically altering small amounts to both retard evaporation of your parfum, allowing the scent to stay longer (something sorely missing in alot of modern day parfums) and to customize the alcohol to accomodate specific ingredients more harmoniously in the parfum proper. Doing this gives a deeper depth and complexity to any parfum formula. Alcohol, because of its volatile evaporation, carries the scent out and into the air with it, something that came into vouge in victotorian times, when your parfum was a kind of 'signature' of your person . When fixatifs are used in a parfum, they do not exibit the skin drying effects that modern parfums tend towards. Also, your parfum is strong enouph, you need not use so much of it that skin dryness and your parfum become an issue in todays ultra sensative social milleu. Back when it was the thing to promote ones status by showing off your scent, it was meant for others really, instead of keeping it close to your own bodies warmth to be enjoyed by self and close intimates of your life.
A parfum has a higher concentration of essential oils and extracts than does eau d' parfum/esprit d' parfum. Though less concentrated, none the less leaves an intense and lingering aroma. Eau d' Toilette and Eau d' Cologne are lighter than parfum, with cologne considered to be the lightest. In todays view of organic, or 'green' focus, we would add the Aromatic Artisan Hydrosols to this list, making it the lightest of them all, but because of the nearly complete water content, it is suitable for a traveling sponge bath (hence the use of the word 'toilette water' in years bygone.) to a pleasent additive to drinks and appertifs and such.
Parfum became prominent in Europe at the time of the crusades. The creator of the first cologne was Gian Paolo Feminis. The percent of essential oil in this type of cologne is about 5%, whereas parfum has the highest concentration at 20-25% range.
So here at The Old Civet Cat we are here to present high quality parfum, done in a manner and way nearly lost to the sands of time, and shown off to its heights by the French tradition. We are eager to have your reactions to our modern and ancient interpretations and extrapolations to our scented offerings. Though it may take some time, never feel bashful to send a letter to our scent director to give direct input and feedback.
Please write us if you have a special need or desire of our custom skills in making something to suit you and be one of a kind, to walk with you like it was born with you! Inquiries from both individuals and businesses are welcomed and desired, let us create something exclusive to yourself or your store front or organization.